This Mendocino Pinot carries a fistful of oak, and that wood creates some lemony, sawmill aromas. Within its class, it’s a large, vibrant one, and it seems to have bitten off more that it can chew. The wood notes are just too omnipresent. That said, it has ripe fruit and a large, satisfying mouthfeel.——M.S.(12/1/2003)—— 87