The 1997 Chardonnay Whitney's Vineyard (400 cases) is 100% barrel-fermented and aged, of which 45% are new. Primarily made from an old Wente clone, it possesses more minerality than the Coach Insignia. The backward, full-bodied 1997 is intensely rich with wet stone/cold steel notes nicely etched in the spicy, leesy, smoky fruit flavors. The wine is highly-extracted yet displays good underlying structure and acidity. It should drink well for 5-6 years. Tel. (707) 539-7511; Fax (707) 539-3601

This estate vineyard wine’s complex nose melds mineral, spice and lime aromas with herb and floral notes. It handles the disparate elements gracefully, showing body but not weight, and has a soft, almost tender mouthfeel. There’s a touch of floral sweetness in the mouth—as on the nose—offset by earthy, mineral flavors on a lithe frame. This wine shows real subtlety, but leaves us wishing for more depth. Finishes light, dry and flinty.——W.E.(7/1/2001)—— 88