This may already be five-plus years old, but the lucent light color and bright mix of briny stone fruit, resiny oak, bees wax and spice aromas seem young. This barrel-aged Viura is resiny feeling on the surface but surfs on a stream of zesty acidity. Savory oak, lees, dried papaya and citrus flavors finish long and layered; drink Rioja's answer to white Burgundy through 2035. MICHAEL SCHACHNER