From a small plots with 20- and 45-year old vines, the Mikulski 2006 Meursault Gouttes d’Or prominently features grapefruit and lime with the pungency of their peels, and a tactile sense of crushed stone culminating in a concentrated, quite gripping, zesty cling that some tasters may consider unnecessarily rough, but which I find exhilarating. I suspect this will be worth following from at least 5-7 years. The 2005 displays even more spine, brightness, and chalkiness. Francois Mikulski has been working his uncle, Henri Boilot’s vines for fifteen vintages, and his relatively lean but pristine wine making style is as distinctive as is his (lack of any conventional) label. In retrospect, Mikulski says, he wishes he had started picking just before the 2006 ban de vendange, rather than a couple of days later, but he is happy to have finished wines hovering around 13.5% alcohol, low for the vintage. A Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70