The first two things you notice are how delicious the flavors are and how gentle the tannins are. Blackberries, cherries, raspberries and mulberries mingle with 80% new oak to provide a thrill of a palate experience. As for those tannins, they’re as ripe and sweet as a hot vintage and modern viticulture can provide, but this wine should do all sort of interesting things over the next 10 years.——S.H.(12/31/2007)—— 94