I was blown away by the 2010 Ripper, a 100% Grenache done in concrete for the first time. It boasts captivating aromatic complexity, layers of sweet, refined fruit and fabulous overall balance. Vivid red fruit, flowers, mint and spices linger on the sublime finish. The Ripper boasts extraordinary varietal expression. Making pure Grenache in Paso Robles is not easy, but this is a model of what can be achieved here. Although impeccably restrained, the sheer glycerin and richness are pure California. The 2010 Ripper is a modern-day classic from Booker and proprietor Eric Jensen. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Behind Eric Jensen’s outgoing, boisterous personality lies the mind of one of the most thoughtful and introspective winemakers in Paso Robles. An unending drive for perfection means Jensen is satisfied with nothing but the very best. Over the last few years, that has led to some serious rethinking in the vineyards and cellar. Today, the wines are more polished than they have ever been. I have also included notes on the ‘22’ series of wines that spend a few extra months in barrel. The handful of 2011s I tasted were delicate, perfumed and quite pretty, but with less depth and structure than either the 2009s or the 2010s. One day, when the vineyards of Westside Paso Robles are fully understood, I have little doubt Booker will occupy a place at or near the top. Eric Jensen’s relentless passion and commitment for excellence make Booker the single most exciting emerging property in Paso Robles. Tel. (805) 237-7367, www.bookerwines.com