A Ridge classic, the deep ruby/purple-colored 1998 Lytton Springs (14.3% alcohol; 77% Zinfandel, 16% Petite Sirah, 4% Matero, 2% Carignan, and 1% Alicante) boasts a sweet nose of briery fruit intermixed with red and black currants, minerals, pepper, and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, with dried Provencal herb characteristics that emerge with airing, this fleshy, beautifully pure, and stunningly proportioned Zinfandel can be drunk now as well as over the next 5-6 years. Tel. (408) 867-3233

A vineyard blend that includes 16% Petite Sirah, 2% Carignane, 4% Mataro and 1% Alicante Bouschet. Meaty, funky and ripe, with intense fruit, lots of earthy, barnyardy accents, and a long, tannic finish. This is old style Zin, no holds barred, with full-throttle flavors for aficionados. ——P.G.(3/1/2001)—— 92