Given the ocean of washed-out, vegetal red wines parading under the Merlot banner, Kendall-Jackson's 1993 Merlot Vintner's Reserve, although not a great wine, possesses enough varietal character to merit attention. Moreover, it is reasonably priced. Drink it over the next 3-4 years for its berry, coffee, herb-tinged, medium-bodied personality. Tel. (707) 544-4000