Tasted as an approximation to the eventual assemblage, Baumard’s 2009 Savennieres Clos du Papillon presents a plush, soothing yet by no means heavy overall impression, reflecting both the nature of the vintage with its relatively low total acidity and the extent to which already low-malic acid material underwent malo-lactic fermentation. (In any given vintage, Baumard’s Savennieres is almost never if at all 100% malo or non-malo.) Almond and walnut oil mingle with quince, while decadent floral perfume wafts all the way through to a buoyant finish nonetheless underlain by the anticipated wet stone. There is a leesy richness here enlivened by hints of fresh lime, and well-integrated quinine and fruit pit notes that don’t turn outright bitter. This should be a handsome Savennieres for 6-8 years’ keeping, but in its own way – and like the corresponding 2008 – not one of those that demands cellaring. I finally had the pleasure to taste personally with Florent Baumard (for more about whose domaine and methods, consult my report in issue 172) and found him a disarmingly astute critic of his own wines whose confidence I share that the best is yet to come from this vast and already justly renowned estate. I find a freedom from bitter or coarse elements and a clarity of flavors in the more recent wines that is welcome and which, when pressed, Florent Baumard suggests might in part be attributable to increasingly selective and watchful (though not necessarily gentler) pressing. The envelope-pushing here is evident in the quality of Baumard’s relatively high-volume sparking wines, rendered from blends unfamiliar outside of the Loire. The wines I tasted five years ago were good, but only modestly-recommendable (and I elected not to publish notes on them in issue 172). The lot numbers of Baumard non-vintage sparkling wines appear on the front label in very tiny, faint letters under the words “sparkling wine,” but cannot be read without good eyesight, and not if the bottle is wet! The Baumards’ “regular” bottling of Savennieres is from their Clos St. Yves vineyard between the Clos du Papillon and Roche aux Moines, and a fact of which I was not aware when I published my notes in issue 172 is that two different labels are used interchangeably, one of which indicates the vineyard name.Importer: Ex Cellars wine Agencies, Cambridge, MA; tel. (617) 876-5105