Harvested December 29, Loewen’s 2008 Leiwener Klostergarten Riesling Auslese represents what was nearly an Eiswein, from a relatively steep, slatey slope in the Klostergarten rather than the gentle spot nearer the river from which he normally harvests Eiswein. But these grapes were 75% botrytized and Loewen says “I’m not much of a fan of January Eiswein anyway,” as the grapes can too easily deteriorate. Lemon meringue, lemon zest, radish, and smoke seem to spring from the glass, leaving your eyes and nose practically smarting. “If this isn’t Eiswein …” you think. And the palate impression is like biting into radish and lemon while imbibing quince preserves. In the finish, this takes a dramatic turn, revealing musky, animal notes, with white raisin, honey, and brown spices pointing toward botrytis. This is an amazing but at the same time inharmonious elixir. I won’t begin to predict what will come of it, though it would be fascinating to find out. Karl-Josef Loewen associates the measurably high dry extracts of his 2008s with their ability to buffer high acids but also to convey mineral characteristics. He was pleased to point out that not one of his dry wines reached 12% alcohol this vintage, and only partly on account of that vintage itself. Especially with his oldest vines, pruning for multiple short canes and de-leafing at critical junctures are among the techniques being employed to diminish the accretion of sugar and maximize flavor. Small berries and clusters are also critical, says Loewen, who does not believe in green harvesting. “The trick,” he opines, “is to make little wine from many bunches, rather than little wine from few bunches.”Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300