Santa Lucia’s 2006 Castel del Monte Melograno (Uva di Troia) was aged in 34-hectoliter casks. It is soft-textured and forward in its expression of candied fruit, bubble gum and oak. There is excellent depth and persistence here, yet the wine comes across as excessively sweet. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Melograno is a 100% expression of Nero di Troia with loads of exotic spice, curry powder, cedar wood, bee’s wax and church incense. The wine delivers lush, cherry flavors and a chewy feel in the mouth.——M.L.(3/1/2009)—— 86