Mar de Frades’ 2009 Albarino was fermented in stainless steel and spent 2 months in contact with its lees. Medium straw-colored, it gives up an enticing nose of citrus, pear, peach, and spring flowers. On the palate it has excellent concentration, vibrant acidity, lots of spicy fruit, and a lengthy finish. It is another example of how fine a vintage 2009 is in Rias Baixas.Importer: W.J. Deutsch & Sons; www.wjdeutsch.com

Starts out a little gaseous and sulfuric, but it picks up steam in the mouth, where flavors of apricot, citrus and tropical fruits perform a likeable dance. Powerful acidity pushes it in the right direction, and the finish of lychee, passion fruit and nectarine is lasting. Very nice wine but relatively high in price. ——M.S.(12/15/2010)—— 88