Guffens' Chablis offerings continue to enthrall me. Guffens most stunning Chablis in 1996 is the Chablis Bougros, a testimony to the greatness of the vintage and to his brilliant winemaking. It exhibits sublime lemon, mineral, flower, and wet stone aromatics as well as a feminine, silky, refined, classy, and medium-to-full-bodied personality. Raspberries, currants, roses, flint, and flavors reminiscent of a massive bouquet of freshly cut spring flowers are found in this complex and detailed beauty. Guffens put it best, "I decided to throw away the Chardonnay and keep the flowers." I suggest cellaring this gem until 2003 at the earliest, and drinking it over the subsequent 12 years. The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. A year ago, Jean-Marie Guffens told me that 1996 was the greatest vintage of his lifetime. While he did not repeat that comment when I visited him in November, Guffens was bursting with pride as I tasted the wines. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-44706293), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.

Showy Chablis. Well made and exotic, in a heavily toasted style, showing wonderful lemon, honey, spice and mocha complexity and excellent fresh acidity. Bursts with intense flavors that perk up the palate, but doesn't show quite the round, smooth finesse of the higher-scoring grands crus. Drink now through 2000. 580 cases made.??–PM??Region: France / Burgundy / Chablis Select to Add