The top wine here is the Rugiens, a deeply colored, full-bodied, rich, concentrated wine that has plenty of extract and quite a finish. It should be ready to drink by 1991-1992. Billard-Gonnet produces tannic, lean, classic wines that are slow to develop. His wines are usually among the least impressive burgundies when young. Most vintages need a good 4 to 5 years to shed their cloaks of tannin. Even the 1985s, a precocious, flattering vintage to taste young, are firm and introverted.