The 2005 Crosara Breganze (Merlot) reveals gorgeous, expressive aromatics that meld into a palate of ripe dark fruit, sweet herbs and French oak. The wine possesses notable concentration and depth although the tannins could use a little more polish. This is a commendable effort in a very challenging vintage, although understandably, the wine doesn't reach the level of the sublime 2004. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. This is another set of strong wines from one of Veneto's most inspired producers. Fausto Maculan is best known for his phenomenal dessert wines, but his dry reds merit serious consideration as well. 2005 was a cool, damp year which presented its greatest challenges to early-maturing varieties like Merlot, while the later-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon had time to recuperate.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620