Jean Rijckaert Les Sarres Cotes du Jura Chardonnay, Jura, France

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For all the bashing Chardonnay takes among wine enthusiasts, when well made it is still among the food-friendliest of wines. This lovely version from France's Jura boasts understated oak, ripe pear and apple fruit and an elegant minerality that sets it apart from the crowd. Pair it with virtually any seafood dish, or with white meats, including chicken, veal and pork. Imported by Michael Skurnik.——J.C.(8/1/2005)—— 89