Lean, minerally, even a bit austere, this is the sort of crisp, mouthwatering drink that used to be more common in the Alsace section of retail shops. Racy lime flavors pair with riper notes of apples and pears, then finish dry. Best on its own, or perhaps with simply prepared lean-fleshed fish such as flounder or sole. Drink now.——J.C.(7/1/2007)—— 86