Guffens' Chablis offerings continue to enthrall me. The 1996 Chablis Valmur, while not quite as mind-blowing as the 1995, is a stunning wine. Rich aromas of liquid minerals, white flowers, red berries and sweet oak notes are followed by a broad, full-bodied, and supremely complex character. Silky-textured, deep, and broad, this steely offering is filled with flint, metals, minerals, and dried herbs. As with its older brother, the 1995, this Valmur has an unbelievably long, precise, and pure finish. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2012. The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. A year ago, Jean-Marie Guffens told me that 1996 was the greatest vintage of his lifetime. While he did not repeat that comment when I visited him in November, Guffens was bursting with pride as I tasted the wines. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-44706293), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.

A beautiful Chablis, atypical because of the toasted oak, but the wood isn't out of proportion to the opulent texture, the marvelous lime-honey flavors and the excellent acidity. Full-bodied and balanced, it's silky and stays clean, pure and vibrant on the long, deliciously lively finish. Still, expect heavy-duty, full-throttle Burgundian treatment in this heavily toasted Chardonnay. Drink now through 2010. 500 cases made.??–PM??Region: France / Burgundy / Chablis Select to Add