This estate-grown Cabernet shows good concentration and a stylish mix of fruit, leaf and herb across the palate. There are subtle notes of tomato leaf, bark and earth, along with black currant and blackberry fruit. The tannins are smoky and substantial, with a green tea edge to them. The wine is finished at under 14% alcohol, and it captures the sort of varietal character that cannot be found in superripe, superhot New World wines.——P.G.(12/31/2007)—— 88