The 2006 Gago from Toro was fermented in foudre and raised in new French oak for 12 months. It has a delightful bouquet of toasty oak, Asian spices, lavender, espresso, licorice, and blackberry. This opulent, buxom beauty will deliver pleasure now through 2018. The talented Telmo Rodriguez makes a wide range of high quality wines from both ends of the price spectrum. Importer: Michael Quinttus, Vintus Wines; www.vintuswines.com

Tough, earthy berry aromas provide a fierce outlook. The palate answers the call, showing syrupy richness amid piercing tannins. Flavors of baked black fruits yield to molasses on the short, stout finish. Tannic and solid, but very sweet. Could it use a bit more balance perhaps?——M.S.(4/1/2010)—— 88