Meroi’s 2008 Ros di Buri (Merlot) is an explosive, mineral-laced wine imbued with black fruits, tar, licorice and graphite, all of which meld together in a powerful, authoritative expression of one of Friuli’s top sites. This shows marvelous integrity and tons of class. At times I wonder if Ros di Buri should really be the estate’s flagship red. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. Meroi is one of the most exciting young wineries in Friuli. One gets the sense the estate is close to major breakthroughs, especially with their reds. The wines I tasted from barrel during a recent visit point to a bright future. Importers: Small Vineyards, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 933-6767, Soilair Selection, New York, NY; tel. (646) 244-4022