The Pousse d'Or flagship 2006 Volnay Clos De La Bousse d’Or is unusually smoky and gamey in aroma for a youthful wine from this site. Dried fruits and pungent, exotic spices – ginger, allspice, coconut, and tamarind – convey undeniable allure, but spice segues into a slightly tough chew of fruit skins and resinous stickiness in a finish that wants for a pit of transparency and lift. That said, it is of course early days for this well-concentrated Volnay, and I am sure it has significant aging potential, though I suspect it may quickly evolve in a decidedly gamey, leathery direction. Patrick Landanger reports having fermented longer and worked harder to extract flavor from his 2006 crop, and while the results are undeniably concentrated, on the occasion of my tasting, several suffered a bit from opacity and tannic severity. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861 6800 and a Peter Vezan Selection, Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93