The Gunderloch 2007 Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese was separated out painstakingly on tables from the harvest of Beerenauslese, and the results are startlingly different as well as obviously superior. A very light pressing was employed to retain clarity and the more noble aspects of botrytis. Apricot nectar, peach preserves, brown spices, leather, and a mysterious aura of ancient aromatic wood in the nose lead to a startlingly viscous palate whose jam-like sweetness is balanced by efficacious citrus-like acids and a salty tang that carry into a huge finish of candied orange rind, marzipan, and pit fruit preserves. Remarkably, there is little sheer sense of honey about this, and absolutely no caramelization. I’m reminded in certain respects of the highest-grade Tokaji Aszu by this wines mystery and vivacity. It will almost certainly outlive all who read this report when it appears.
The best Riesling sites at Gunderloch weren’t picked before late October, and nobly sweet wines were harvested into February! The berries were tiny and largely healthy, says Agnes Hasselbach, and it stayed cold, dry, windy, and sunny, so they slowly dried out.
Imported: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463
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