An intriguing, fabulous dessert wine. The aromas are complex, intense and balanced on a tightrope: mature peach, honey, wet stone, peppermint and delicate mineral nuances. Picolit is an indigenous grape that suffers from a unique disorder in which a good number of berries on each cluster never mature. The remaining berries become concentrated in rich flavor and sugar. Livio Felluga’s version is a masterpiece that ends with a fresh, menthol-driven finish and a crisp close. Pair this elegant wine with creme brulee or a light caramel custard.——M.L.(7/1/2008)—— 95