The saturated, medium to dark ruby-colored 1998 Merlot Klipsun has overripe dark berry and cherry aromas. On the palate, it offers concentrated, powerful layers of beautifully ripened red and black fruits. Velvety-textured and deep, it is muscular, highly concentrated, and well-extracted. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2012. Tel. (206) 463-3290.

The Klipsun Vineyard is located on Red Mountain, at the eastern edge of the Yakima Valley, which someday soon could have its own AVA. For now you may revel in its obvious terroir: an iron-rich mineral streak that runs straight through the wines. Tight and metallic, with vibrant fruit, it’s built to last.——P.G.(9/1/2000)—— 92