In some cases, like with the 2012 Collio Friulano Furlana, Friulano gives off sea salt, almost ash-like aromas. That characteristic comes through nicely here. This is tight, well-made wine with no extra bells or whistles. It offers a pristine and honest drinking experience that reflects many of the basic core values of white winemaking in the cool, gravely soils northeast of Italy. Drink: 2013-2014. Conti Formentini is the Friuli estate of GIV (Gruppo Italiano Vini), Italy’s largest wine holding with nearly 20 wineries spanning the peninsula. Precise winemaking technology and large case numbers mean these wines are readily available for informal drinking occasions. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, www.frederickwildman.com