While Carmignano gets my vote as the most underrated Tuscan appellation, a close second is Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. These wines offer a refreshing contrast to the tannic, brawny, often irregular Brunello di Montelcinos as they can be, in the finest vintages, voluptuously-textured, soft, round, generous wines that drink deliciously young, yet possess an uncanny ability to age. Not surprisingly, the local cognescenti refer to Vino Nobile di Montepulciano as the Pomerols of Tuscany.Dei fashions tasty wines that need no aging to show well. The excellent 1991 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva possesses a deep ruby color, a spicy, tobacco, earthy, underbrush-scented nose, and rich, medium to full-bodied flavors that exhibit good structure, some tannin, and excellent concentration. This backward wine will age well for a decade.