The 2004 Periquita is a ton of fun, and a good value. In its exuberance, it shows ripe and lovely raspberry notes, perhaps even a hint of kirsch, along with some brightness and light tannins on the finish. It is relatively modest in the mid-palate, and as it develops in the cellar, its mid-palate will take on a certain Burgundian feel. The very sweet fruit, not too far off candied in its youth, although it will calm down with age, is another matter entirely. It is a wine to drink young, since it has little upside after a few initial months of cellaring. Experience shows that the regular bottling thins out fast, and this, with air, predictably thinned out and calmed down quickly, which certainly has to constrain the score. Not a serious criticism for a $10 wine, but it still is what it is. This seems like an excellent vintage for this regular bottling, but remember to drink it young for best results. This is 70% Castelao, 20% Trincadeira and the rest Aragonez. Drink now-2008. This Southern Portuguese winery has holdings in several regions. They are most famous for Lancer’s Rose, although Periquita is also a signature offering. In fact, they make some nice table wines, so don’t let that Lancer’s thing get in your way. The Domini wines were made in partnership with Cristiano van Zeller, owner of Quinta do Vale D. Maria, and former co-owner of Quinta do Noval. The strip label at the bottom, however, only carried the Fonseca designation, so I have listed them here.Importer for Periquita and Domini: Palm Bay Imports, Port Washington, NY; tel. (561) 362-9462. No known American importer for the Hexagon and FSF.

A rich, intense wine, a definite step up from the standard Periquita, smooth and packed with sweet, ripe red fruits, the juiciness of the Castelao grape tamed by the wood polish.——R.V.(4/1/2008)—— 87