Beloved by everyone from Dickens to Napolean, this exquisite dessert wine, which was produced in the 18th and 19th centuries in Constantia and is now being revived at Klein Constantia, is a wonderful treat. It’s made from ripe Muscat de Frontignan, a naturally sweet grape with charm and complexity. Layers of honey, orange and spice coat the tongue in a sumptuous wave, but the wine still has a delicate quality that begs for another glass. Pair it with rich dishes like foie gras or creme brulee and you’ll see why Jane Austen lauded it in Sense & Sensibility as the sure-fire cure for a broken heart. ——S.K.(7/1/2007)—— 91