The 1996 Chardonnay is truly impressive for its remarkable freshness. Despite its fifteen years of age, the 1996 is bright, focused and full of energy! If anything, varietal aromatics and flavors haven’t quite emerged. For now this remains a mid-weight, mineral-driven white that speaks more of Alto Adige than it does of Chardonnay. The finish maintains notable focus, drive and harmony. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021. The most impressive wines I tasted this year from Alto Adige came from Cantina di Terlano. Simply put, these are reference point wines. I can’t imagine these wines not being represented in any serious cellar.Importer: Banville & Jones Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (204) 294-4899

Here’s an unexpectedly ambitious Chardonnay that joins an elite group representing Italy’s best white wines. Released some 15 years after the vintage, this is a deeply sophisticated and opulent wine that presents elegant nuances of stone and passion fruits, mineral and toasted almond. The wine is smooth, rich and very long lasting.——M.L.(11/1/2010)—— 94