While I unfortunately missed out on a chance to taste its 2006 predecessor, Kerpen’s 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese trocken Alte Reben – actually representing a cask-selection, although the vines are certainly old – may a few years to show its superiority over the corresponding “regular” bottling, which at the moment is somewhat more expressive and site-typical. In this “old vines” version, melon, almond, and hazelnut dominate in the nose and on a flatteringly silken-textured palate, with subdued suggestions of wet stone underlying the wine’s nutty finish. While Martin Kerpen’s extensive array of dry Rieslings from 2007 is not on quite the superlative order of their immediate predecessors, his residually sweet wines are again highly successful.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300