Citrus and gooseberry define the all-fruit nose. In the mouth, you’ll encounter the full allotment of cantaloupe, citrus and green herbs, particularly basil. The tangy finish is like grapefruit sorbet after a nice meal; it cleanses the palate, leaving no residue at all. It’s refined, racy and tips the scale at just the right weight.——W.E.(8/1/2002)—— 90