Loewen’s 2006 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Spatlese A.P. #22 represents a batch that finished fermenting in April, two months after the #14 (although it had less botrytis) and he did not want to obliterate the fascinating and delectable difference between the two of them. Peach, yellow plum, honeysuckle, and orange zest in the nose lead to a creamy (almost buttery) yet juicy palate, marked by salts and subtle sweetness. Cool, fresh fruit juiciness and savory salinity dominate the luscious finish, with hints of brown spice and fruit skin lending pungency, and discreet but more noticeable sweetness than in the A.P. #14. This should hold well for 14-18 years. The Mosel’s greatest champion of once-great but recently-neglected sites and one of German viticulture’s most tireless outside-the-box thinkers in the search for quality, Karl-Josef Loewen took extra efforts in 2006 including adding supplemental pickers who helped him harvest in only ten days. He did not begin until October 8, believing that “before then, the ripeness just wasn’t there.” Loewen is notoriously fearless when it comes to harvesting botrytis, but he tended toward more whole-cluster pressing than usual to help guard against impure elements of rot. In an exciting development, beginning this year, Loewen is taking the lead with Carl Schmitt-Wagner in farming the latter’s ancient Riesling in Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300