Scents of orange blossom and heliotrope waft from the glass of Muller-Catoir 2007 Haardter Herrenletten Riesling Spatlese, leading to a palate impression akin to sucking on a vanilla-tinged, honey-drenched orange creamsicle. Yet for all of its confectionary aspects and creaminess of texture, this pure, polished wine harbors offsetting refreshment and savory, saline mineral suggestions. Hints of black tea, mint, and licorice add to the allure of a finish with lift, delicacy, and memorably soothing length. There is more than a little Mosel-like here, which one could understandably see as an extension of Franzen’s heritage. This should be worth revisiting over the course of two decades. You had to play poker and take some chances this year, remarked Martin Franzen, and based on the vinous evidence, he repeatedly played winning hands. The stylistic evolution of wines under Franzen’s and proprietor Philip Catoir’s direction – which I honestly find it difficult to understand why so many commentators view as utterly discontinuous with the legacy of legendary former cellar master Hans-Gunter Schwarz – has run toward increasing refinement and subtlety in the Rieslings, for which conditions in 2007 – assuming (as one can, here) impeccable viticultural husbandry and patience at harvest – were ultimately ideal (even as they had been problematic in 2006). Franzen has turned out the first totally masterful Scheurebe collection of his career this year. And the nobly sweet wines – including, improbably, six tour de force TBAs, among which are the estate’s first-ever from Muskateller and Weissburgunder and first Scheurebe TBA since 1964 – dazzle with the audacity and at times raucousness that routinely accrue to nobly sweet Pfalz 2007s, and are at their best unsurpassed. Nearly all of this year’s collection (save for one refusenik Rieslander TBA) had been bottled already in April, a bold strategy considering how downright unsettled by nature some of them are. But capturing all of their energy in bottle seemed to be the governing metaphor. I cannot resist pointing out that – in keeping with a lamentable national trend – there is now not just no halbtrocken wine here, but no middle ground: every wine this year is either legally trocken or obviously sweet. Muller-Catoir is increasing their acreage of Pinot Blanc – in itself a welcome development, although partisans of Rieslaner will be dismayed to learn that it is coming at that variety’s expense.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

This terrific spatlese features honey and spice and everything nice. This turns the clever trick of being sweet without being fruity, offering up complex umami-like flavors alongside touches of brown sugar. It’s creamy through the midpalate yet finishes with vibrant acidity, making it easy to drink.——J.C.(6/1/2009)—— 92