Camille Giroud’s 2008 Chapelle-Chambertin – based on purchased must, and tasted from tank – smells of blueberry and boysenberry, cassis, and medicinal herbal extracts. Brimming with primary juiciness – while displaying tart fruit skin chew, bitter herbs, fruit pit, and chalky impingement on the palate – this (for now, at least) misses the sweetness of the corresponding Charmes or grip of the Latricieres. David Croix’s 2008 Camille Giroud collection was picked late; slow to evolve; and for the most part had not been bottled when I tasted in April. Although I missed out on a couple of wines in this year’s collection, the line-up from Camille Giroud was also smaller than in previous years. (I have not tasted the 2007s here. For details about the recent revival of Camille Giroud and about David Croix’s approach, readers are referred to reports in issues 160 and 170 respectively; and for reports on Croix’s own domaine, see under Domaine des Croix.) A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70