Out of the chute, the aromas are sweet and cloying, but settle to reveal cured meat and leather notes. Purple fruit on the palate has its share of stably, briary accents, on through the finish. It’s not the deepest, broadest wine on the block, but its unusual profile merits it a look, particularly with food. Imported by Indigo Wine Group. ——D.T.(6/1/2006)—— 87