The 2008 Girolamo (Merlot) is another big boy. Black cherries, plums, smoke and licorice emerge from an opulent, beautifully layered wine that never loses its sense of underlying structure. Sage, rosemary and licorice are some of the nuances that develop in the glass. All of the elements are very much in symmetry. A rich, super-inviting finish makes it hard to put down the glass. Girolamo is one of the most distinctive Merlots in Tuscany. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028. These new releases from Castello di Bossi and consulting oenologist Alberto Antonini are off the charts. Prices remain very reasonable considering the quality of what is in the glass. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620