The 2008 Greco from Ocone reveals unusual complexity in its suggestions of honeyed apricots, ripe, succulent peaches, smoke and minerals. This is a decidedly rich Greco loaded with character and personality. Faint notes of petrol that recall Riesling appear on the finish, hinting at the direction the wine is likely to take over the coming years. The Greco was made from organically farmed vineyards in the Sannio district and aged in stainless steel. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

This is a deeply golden and saturated Greco that offers the structure and consistency to pair with white meat, pasta or shellfish. It offers subtle flavors of butterscotch and dried apricot as well. ——M.L.(6/1/2011)—— 84