In an appellation that is often frustratingly disappointing, Tardieu-Laurent has turned out a brilliant 2006 Gigondas Vieilles Vignes. Eighty-five percent Grenache and the rest Mourvedre and Syrah, this wine is better than those of many of the best growers. Dark ruby/purple with notes of crushed rock and some hints of blueberry and raspberry, the wine has a cooler-climate feel, but medium to full-bodied flavors and a long, heady finish.This high-quality negociant operation, started by Burgundian Dominique Laurent and his southern sidekick, the charismatic Michel Tardieu, continues to turn out high-class wines from purchased wine. Front man Michel Tardieu seems to know some of the finest growers in the Rhone, and he is willing to pay top dollar in order to get the stuff he wants.Importers: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808 and Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029

A very opulent style, with lots of fig bread and fruitcake aromatics, all backed by dense, fleshy plum, currant and boysenberry fruit laid over a mineral- and charcoal-filled finish. There's plenty in reserve. Drink now through 2012. 450 cases made, 25 cases imported.??–JM??Region: France / Southern Rh?ne / Gigondas Select to Add

Strongly marked by bold aromas and flavors of vanilla, the fruit in this wine also shows a high-toned, Bing cherry note. Yet in the mouth, it’s full bodied, round and lushly textured, ending with plenty of intensity. Give it a chance to settle down and try it in 2011.——J.C.(12/15/2009)—— 89