The 500+ cases of the 1998 Bricco Rovella, a blend of 60% Nebbiolo, 30% Barbera, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 18 months in new French oak, offers plenty of smoky, toasty oak intertwined with black fruits, smoke, cedar, and cigar box notes. It is medium-bodied and surprisingly elegant for a wine of this modern, international style. Drink it over the next 5-6 years.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411