An unusual combination of flavors that are searingly tart and yet seem to have a sugary core, this is scented with honeysuckle and orange blossom, and opens out quickly into a fruitbowl of ripe, tangy flavors. Apples, pears, oranges, candied lemons, even a hint of papaya are all in the mix. But be ready for some tongue-tangling acidity. ——P.G.(10/1/2010)—— 88