Sadly, there are only 23,000 bottles (all aged in small oak) of the outstanding 1996 Cote Rotie Chateau d'Ampuis, which was bottled in October, 1999. Its dark ruby/purple color is followed by an intense nose of tapenade, dried herbs, licorice, leather, and black currants. The wine is nicely-textured, soft, with less acidity than most 1996 Cote Roties, and a layered, supple finish. Drink it over the next 10-12 years. Importer: Fred Ek, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153

Beautiful. Balanced, supple and silky. Full-bodied, it's delicious now thanks to the ripe, smooth tannins. Offers fresh blackberry and red berry flavors, with intense smoke and grilled character and a lively finish. Drink now through 2008. 2,080 cases made. -PM