This section of San Luis Obispo County is not known as Syrah country, but judging by this beautiful bottling, it should be. The wine is bone dry, firm in tannins and bright in acidity, with a cool-climate white pepper note riding over intense black cherry, roasted meat and cola flavors, made more complicated by oak. Delicious and compelling and best now. ——S.H.(2/1/2011)—— 92