The 2003 Rosso Dominin is an outstanding effort. This old-vine Merlot (with a small amount of Refosco) reveals exotic aromatics and a richly concentrated core of fruit. With air, gorgeous notes of licorice, sweet herbs, minerals, chocolate and coffee beans come to the fore, adding further complexity to this highly individual, enveloping wine. This offers outstanding balance. Only the tannins could use a little more polish, but that is most likely a function of the super-hot vintage. It will be a fascinating wine to follow in future vintages. The Dominim is made from a selection of the estate’s best fruit. In 2003 there are 900 bottles of this wine. I suppose it’s no surprise I ran into Paolo Meroi at Miani since he and Enzo Pontoni share a lifelong friendship. Pontoni has also been behind the estate’s rise in recent years as Meroi has adopted an intense, quality-minded focus which comes through in the wines. Importer: Small Vineyards, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 933-6767