This tete de cuvee offers everything a Champagne lover seeks: rich, yeasty bread notes on the bouquet; ripe pear, citrus and vanilla flavors; a luxurious mouthfeel; dainty bubbles—the works. While it’s mature, it also seems to have lots of life still in it, meaning it could get better. But why wait? It’s in such a state of grace now. ——M.S.(12/15/2001)—— 93