Somehow I received a sample of the 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva from Jean Leon, a wine that is much older than the rest I tasted. This is a wine that is only produced in special vintages from a selection of grapes from eight hectares of vines for the Vinya La Escala which were planted in 1963. The wine matured for two years in French oak barrels and has been in bottle since April 1999. It has a very classical nose and a polished palate making it a great example of a Mediterranean Cabernet, something in which Jean León was clearly a pioneer. After all these years in bottle there is an obvious reductive character that was a bit distressing at first. As the wine has some age but it is not fragile at all, I'd recommend decanting it in advance. Bell pepper, paprika, brick dust, cedar wood, tobacco and all the classical descriptors are there. The palate is medium-bodied with some dusty, earthy tannins that will never resolve fully and the acidity is quite good. Go for some classic meat dish and you have the perfect marriage! 24,140 bottles.
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