One of the most refreshing aperitif wines money can buy, a Moscato d'Asti is extremely low in alcohol (usually under 6%). No one makes a better, slightly sparkling Moscato than La Spinetta. They offer multiple single vineyard offerings, all of which are usually outstanding. The vineyard differences are less important than the fact that readers should purchase the 1999 vintage, as these wines are usually released within three months of the harvest and are meant to be consumed before the next vintage. La Spinetta's 1999 Vigneto Biancospino exhibits abundant quantities of the fruit cocktail-like nose with scents of melons, oranges, apricots, and peaches. Delicious, pure, and light, with a slight frothiness, it is an outstanding Moscato. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411