Believe it or not, I do taste Vin Santos every few years, but I have never had one quite so remarkable as this 1988 from Villa Sant' Anna. The dark amber color gives way to a penetrating smoked hazelnut/earthy-scented nose with aromas of truffles, soy, and leather. Offering an immense amount of flavor, this dry, sherry-like aperitif or dessert wine (whichever you prefer) is one of the most aromatic, complex, and provocative Vin Santos I have ever tasted. Like so many great wines, quantities are minuscule. Importer: Neal Rosenthal. His selections can be purchased at his retail shop in Manhattan (tel. 212-249-6650 and fax 212-744-3354). His address is P.O. Box 658, Route 83, Shekomeko, NY 12567; telephone 800-910-1990.