From the Chalone appellation, the 2004 Pinot Noir Brosseau Vineyard is a big, muscular, full-bodied, dark ruby/purple-tinged Pinot revealing notes of cranberries, black cherries, and plums, a layered texture, and moderate tannin. It has room to grow in both the glass and bottle, and while approachable, it should evolve nicely for 6-10 years. Tel. (805) 938-5050

Tasted alongside Tantara’s other vineyard Pinots, this is one of the more tannic and acidic. At the same time, the hot vintage yielded immensely ripe fruit, giving the wine jammy, pastry flavors of cherries, red and black raspberries, mocha, cola and root beer. The forwardness will probably limit ageability. ——S.H.(12/31/2006)—— 90