The 2004 Stolen Block Shiraz comes from an 80+-year-old vineyard yielding 0.75 tons per acre. It spent 18 months in French oak, 50% new. The nose offers up smoky oak, plum, licorice, raisin, blueberry, and blackberry liqueur. On the palate this full-bodied wine is sweeter and richer than its cousins while managing to retain some elegance. Cellar it for 4-6 years and drink it through 2024. Importer: Ken Onish and John Gorman, Southern Starz; www.reillyswines.com Also tasted: N.V. Sparkling Mad Shiraz (84)

Full-bodied and softly textured, this is a mouthfilling Shiraz that packs in ample complexity and plenty of flavor. White pepper, herb and plum notes mark the nose, while the flavors of plum and raspberry fruit are accented by hints of herbs and spice. Finishes long, with crisp acids. Drink 2010–2020.——J.C.(8/1/2008)—— 90